Here’s another one that has taken me so long to write about that now the pattern is out of print: McCall M6648! I made this last spring and have worn it about a dozen times since! The fabric is a poly chiffon that I found at my local swap meet for about $1/yd. I loved this print so much that I immediately started a project with it the very day I got home! It is a designer sample from Los Angeles – only about 2 yards – and in a pile of deeply discounted remnants. I found a complementary scrap of chiffon, that was so small they gave it to me for free. I selected this to use for the tie and any other pieces that I might not get out of the print yardage.
I can’t tell you EXACTLY WHY I picked M6648 – it just “spoke” to me for this particular print. I cut most of it from the small amount of yardage I had. I did my usual method for working with very scant yardage. I was able to get most of the pieces for the blouse from the main print, but I was short for the button stands. I got one pair, but needed to cut another set for the inside. I used the contrast fabric for the inside of the button stand.
Regarding the sizing … this top is very oversized and quite forgiving, but the bands at the bottom of the sleeves run small. I didn’t check them first, but should have. It doesn’t make the top impossible to wear, but it is snug on my forearms. I cut my usual size 12, so this was not an issue of cutting the wrong size.
The assembly and instructions were straightforward. I did make some construction detail alterations along the way – mostly out of consideration for the chiffon.
- I cut EVERYTHING (almost) with a rotary cutter. When working with chiffon, I do not use pins. I weight the pieces down, cut, and then carefully lift out after cutting. Occasionally, there are small threads that the cutter missed, so I’ll carefully clean these up with thread snips before removing the pieces from the cutting table.
- The collar, cuffs and button stands needed to be interfaced. I wanted them to be softly tailored, so I used a featherweight weft from Fashion Sewing Supply
- A common trick I use for working with chiffon is to heavy starch the fabric when stabilization is required – such as the undercollar and lower hem. The starch will wash right out, but can make such a huge difference in your finished product
- I used a 4 thread overlock serger on most seams
- I encased the shoulder seams inside the yoke before attaching sleeves, collar, etc
- I did not hand stitch the collar, button stand or cuffs as the instructions indicated. I hand basted them into place and did a “stitch in the ditch” to secure them
- When working with chiffon, dual feed or walking foot makes a big difference to prevent distortion in the finished product
- I did not put a button at the top of the button stand, I instead sewed the tie in place of the button and pulled it through the buttonhole. The original design had a fabric loop here for the tie, but I did not think it would look very good, so I did this instead
This top is one of my favorite projects of 2015. I’ve received many compliments on it and it was such an inexpensive project with so much impact. I don’t think I’ll make another one from this pattern, but I highly recommend it for chiffon.