Aloha! When I returned from Hawaii with my fabric haul, I scoured my pattern stash for things to make out of my new fabrics.  Among my fabrics I had a few with a vertical pattern repeat.  When I searched my patterns, I immediately settled on this one for a first project.  This is a vintage reprint by McCall’s for misses button down vests in two different styles.  One is has a lapel collar, and the other is a rounded neckline, buttoned down the center front.  Both views are lined, which I was not expecting (don’t ask me why – it shouldn’t have been a surprise).  For the lining, I found a neat vintage hunter green acetate that I’ve been storing for over a decade (I took in a huge stash of vintage linings, which has turned out to be a great investment).  This lining had a neat script which read “custom design” in a retro “handwriting” font.  I have no idea how old this lining is – but it looks PRETTY OLD.

Before cutting, I unfolded the pattern and noted the finished garment measurements.  The first thing that stood out is that this pattern is true to size … meaning, you should really cut the size indicated on the back of the package that most closely matches your size.  I picked a size 12 in the shoulders, grading up to a 14 at the armpits for the rest of the top.  I wish I had paid closer attention to the waist measurements, because the waist is truly nipped in and snug on me.  It gives a different look than the relaxed style on the model.  If I were to make this again, I would probably add some more ease to the waist so that it fits more relaxed there.  I found that the bust has plenty of room, so the issue is truly in the waistband sizing.

I did make a couple of alterations to the recommended interfacing.  First, because this is supposed to be a relaxed Hawaiian style garment, I did not interface the entire front of the top, per the instructions.  I only reinforced the arm hole 1.5″, neckline 1.5″, center front buttonhole stand 1.5″, and waist band.  I was very careful to match pattern alignment as I cut, so some of the pieces were not cut according to the instructions.

The construction was pretty straight forward and very easy to follow.  I only changed how the waistband attached to the lining in the final steps by performing a “stitch in the ditch” to catch it on the wrong side (instead of hand-stitching).

For finishing touches, I added topstitching throughout to give it a more “sporty” and relaxed look.  I finished the top off with imported coconut buttons, to complete the “authentic” look.

I am considering making this top again – perhaps the view with lapels – but I would definitely add some more ease to the waistband if I do.

Overall, this pattern has really great drafting and instructions.  I did dock a few points on the sizing due to the misleading model fitting, and some points on the instructions because there are some finishing/trimming/pressing details that are left out, which make it not really suitable for a beginner.

McCall's 7056 Hawaiian Print Front Laid Flat
McCall's 7056 Hawaiian Print Inside Lining
McCall's 7056 Hawaiian Print Topstitching
McCall's 7056 Hawaiian Print Back Laid Flat
McCall's 7056 Hawaiian Print Front (on form)
McCall's 7056 Hawaiian Print Back (on form)
McCall's 7056 Hawaiian Print (on me)
McCall's 7056 Pattern Cover
Hawaii Fabric Haul - hibiscus borders on red