This is the second entry on my Brocade/Lambskin Biker-Style Jacket from the Burda December 2015 issue (design 12/2015 #108B). The first entry can be found here. For more information on this issue, please visit the Burda Style Back Issue Archive. The project itself was very, very intricate and time consuming. I documented it from beginning to end. In order to thoroughly address the project, I need to break it down into a multi-part series. This second article will focus on the assembly of the project.
I had last left off after cutting and interfacing the leather and fabric pieces. I will discuss the outer shell assembly and the lining assembly in two separate sections.
Putting together the outer shell
This project was a multimedia project, meaning it’s a mélange of fabric textures and techniques. The main body of the jacket is brocade, with lambskin accents. It has a biker jacket zipper closure, and mandarin styled collar. The sleeves additionally have zippers.
The first step of the assembly is to install the front closure zipper. Unless you are extremely lucky – you’re probably going to have to trim your zipper to fit the pattern.
- First, measure off of your pattern the zipper length required. Don’t go from the directions because any alterations or changes in seam allowances may affect the length of the zipper. You should check this both at the closing, zippered edge of the lapel, as well as the length at the front princess seam. Use the shorter measurement of the two.
- Use a metal zipper. A plastic zipper is more difficult, if not impossible, to cleanly alter. The metal zipper can easily be altered with pliers.
- A separating zipper cannot be altered by shortening at the bottom. It must be altered from the top opening. Use a pair of pliers and pluck the teeth out one by one until you get the proper length (plus some additional for seam allowance). The top stopperBecause this project uses a metal separating zipper, it’s not as simple as shorting it at one end. The separating piece cannot be adjusted, so your only option is to adjust from the top. For this I used some needle nosed pliers to pull the extra teeth and carefully remove and reinstall the zipper to the correct length.
After the zipper has been trimmed to the correct length, you will need to baste it in place (both lapel and princess seam). It is critical at this stage the you get the alignment correct, as well as leave enough seam allowance at the end of the zipper to ensure you can assemble the remaining pieces.