If you’ve been following my Instagram, you probably wondered what happened to this project. Well … it went on hold due to issues with the drafting. I finally finished it up, and here is the review that goes with it.
This was not a “planned” project, but rather a “destash” project. I had purchased a roll end of this lovely printed poly crepe from EOS, but did not know how best to put it to use. The yardage was 1.75 yards, and I didn’t want to waste it. I pulled out my box of Vogue’s and went searching for something that I could use it for. I settled on this pattern, which I thought might look cute in a print. This pattern is a Vogue Designer Pattern by Kay Unger for an Asymmetrical Collar Dress (V1369), which is recommended to be made from crepe with a tricot lining.
Per my usual style … I find that my time is more valuable to me than the fabric I cut into; so I just cut the whole thing out. Honestly, I can recover ANYTHING that goes wrong, and this was not an exception to the rule. I went ahead and cut the pattern with a size 12 at the shoulders, and a size 14 from the armpit down, taking my usual ½” out of the length of the upper torso, and another 1” of length from the skirt, above the knee. My measurements are closer to a size 16 on the pattern jacket, but 16 is always far too big.
While not entirely unexpected, but still annoying, I did find problems with this pattern.
First, the collar instructions are not right. They ask you to form the pleat on each side of the collar before sewing them together. This is wrong and your collar won’t lay right. You need to sew them together first, and then form the pleat with both layers basted in place first.
Second, the neckline and back is very “gapey”. Even though I cut down a size, there were still problems. I’m always suspicious of patterns with models standing awkwardly … I was prepared for something to be wrong with this one. I was pretty much “done” with this project when I discovered this. The proper way to alter this would to involve darting out the excess between the center front bodice and the shoulder piece on the right, as well as darting out the excess at the center back zipper seam. I simply darted the difference at the center back (1” total at neck, darting to about 4”, ending at the center of the shoulder blade) and left the front alone. It does leave some excess in the front, but the collar disguises the problem.
Third, there is something off about the placement of the center front and the piece on the right. I carefully checked all markings, so I know it’s not me. The piece “pulls” upward, making the hem hang oddly on the right. The pattern photos show similar issues. To fix this, you would likely attach the center front about ½” lower on the right piece. This might fix the front gaping, but I didn’t try.
Fourth, the tricot lining with the crepe allows some stretch (which is fine), but also has a tendency to roll out due to the lack of recovery and firmness typical of tricot. If you choose tricot for your project, make sure the color blends well because the lining is going to be visible, no matter what you do. A stretch charmeuse may be a better pick.
On a positive note … The back turned out really cute, and I might hack this onto something else in the future.
In conclusion … I DO NOT recommend this pattern. It has some drafting problems and would be very challenging and time consuming to tailor properly. If you used a structured knit, and are not in the narrow shouldered spectrum, maybe you can avoid the tailoring challenges. Even without these problems, I don’t think I would make this one again. There are support issues with the shoulder on the right, along with the issues with the tricot lining.